|






Join us
for weekly or weekend services.
Find out more about our
community activities.
Read about our monthly Taize meditation.
| |
|

|
| |
| Introduction
The Round House, roughly 170 years old, is
Western Australia’s oldest government building. Daily coastal winds have
smoothed the stone blocks making up the city’s first gaol. The Round
House stairs lead up to eight small, dark cells and relics of the bygone
days.
The colony’s first lunatic asylum, now
Fremantle’s Arts Centre, is a large, well-maintained structure of
neo-gothic architecture. Exhibits and courtyard music have replaced wards
and wails, but traces of the original lunatic asylum abound through
photographs and quotes.
Called Western Australia’s premier
cultural heritage site, the historical Fremantle Prison housed thousands
of convicts during its lifetime. Built by convicts in the mid 1800s, the
Prison acted as a maximum-security facility until 1991. Within the iron
gates and thick stone walls, visitors can try to imagine a prisoner’s
life by viewing the prison’s chapels, gallows, cells, and wall paintings
and sketches.
A tour book of Western Australia will
contain large glossy photographs of these and other grand, historical
sites in Fremantle, a beautiful port city. But what it may not contain are
the small, hidden treasures of Fremantle.
Fremantle, or Freo (as it is known by
locals), boasts a magnificent and conspicuous history. Whether strolling
along High Street or sitting under an umbrella on its Cappuccino Strip,
visitors can easily see that Fremantle wears her history on her sleeve.
Her meticulously preserved and zealously protected late Victorian and
Edwardian facades abut the sidewalks. Heavy limestone buildings weathered
by the sun and the daily wind called the "Fremantle Doctor"
stand at the crest of hills and at the end of streets. It is easy to close
your eyes and imagine a time of unpaved streets. White sand filled the air
as horses and carts plodded by. And whalers and pearling luggers offshore
were heard inland; the din of ropes and voices carried ashore by the
"Fremantle Doctor."
But Fremantle’s history goes beyond its
grand structures and facades; it is found in quiet corners and shaded
spots. One such secluded jewel, which illustrates the livelihood of some
of Fremantle’s first settlers, their genealogy and their politics, is a
stained glass window in St. John’s Church.
Depending on the approach to St. John’s
Church, a passerby may completely miss it. Bounded by High Street (and the
Town Hall) and Queen and Adelaide Streets, the large limestone structure
is partially hidden by massive palm and fig trees. If approached from the
south or east, a sightseer can easily walk by the church, admiring instead
the neighboring Town Hall or the cameo pink and eggshell white facades of
nearby shops. However, if approached from the north or west, a passerby
cannot miss St. John’s Church with its gray shingled roof, tuck-pointed
stones, soaring belfry, and roof apexes topped with various carved stones
crosses and finials.
Unless the sightseer has an interest in
churches, the once-over given St. John’s may end at that; simply an
appreciative, cursory look at an excellent example of ecclesiastical
architecture. No single detail suggests a further venture inside. Even the
stained glass windows, the church’s pièce de résistance, look
nondescript from the outside. Covered with sheets of protective plastic,
the windows look dull.
Once the portal doors have been crossed,
it is strikingly apparent that St. John’s Church isn’t just another
church – this structure is a historic gem. Fremantle’s history has
woven itself into the interior and exterior of this church.
The church is a well-maintained, vibrant,
living museum, whose roots begin in the colonial days and stretch into the
present. The memorials, big and small, speak of Fremantle’s history
equally as eloquently as the grand facades and structures lining her
streets. The church Archivist, Mr. Brian Solosy, aptly describes the
church: "There is history built in its fabric; it breathes the
atmosphere of early Fremantle, and is a monument to the pioneer spirit of
the early … settlers."
Top
A
Living, Historical Gem – the Pioneer Window
The Pioneer Window, one of St. John’s
prized jewels, was made by E.G. Gowers and A.S. Brown of Greenmount and
donated by Thelma and David Johnson of Nedlands, who have early Fremantle
settler ancestry. The window commemorates the pioneers and early settlers
of Fremantle, including John Hole Duffield, the ancestor of the Johnsons.
Duffield sailed aboard the Warrior
in 1829-1830. He landed alone, his wife and four children over 12,000
miles away in England. They wouldn’t arrive for almost two more years,
on the Egyptian. Walking along today’s up-market Esplanade and
the busy port with docked seafaring vessels and anchored sailing boats, it
is hard to imagine the feeling of isolation and desolation felt by many of
the first settlers. Before Duffield stretched a flat, white landscape
dotted with dusty bush and scrawny trees. North and south of Fremantle
sheds, tents, crates, ploughs, sheep, and cattle were scattered
haphazardly over the scrub-covered dunes.
The Pioneer Window distinguishes itself
from other church windows by its subject matter. Whereas the majority of
windows depict religious themes such as caring for the needy, or religious
persons such as Jesus, the Pioneer Window illustrates the religious and
secular life in the early settlement of Fremantle. The window juxtaposes
memories of the motherland with life in the British colony.
Another distinguishing characteristic of
the Pioneer Window is its use of space. Unlike the other windows, whose
subjects depict a solitary figure or a single scene, each of the Pioneer
Window’s medallions (sections) illustrate miniature, standalone scenes.
Framing and/or incorporated into many of the sections are symbols such as
roses, wheat, grapes, and grapevines. The repetition of these symbols
unifies the distinct scenes and brings cohesion into the sectioned
approach to the window.
The Pioneer Window can be split down its
vertical middle to denote before and after immigration. The left four
medallions depict life in England, while the right four sections show life
in the new colony. The importance placed on St. Paul’s Cathedral, the
church of the Commonwealth, is shown in its positioning. This grand
structure of columns, central dome, and flanking towers is located at the
pinnacle of the window, belonging solely to neither pre nor post ocean
passage. An early crest of the Cathedral (dating back to Christopher Wren)
is prominently displayed beneath the colossal structure.
Top
Solace
and Security
Colonial St. John’s Church was
indispensable to many of the colonists. Regular gatherings provided a
sense of community, spirituality, and hope in a land that seemed to its
pioneers not only distant, but also foreign. The church also acted as a
social club, performing plays and organizing sports clubs and fellowship
leagues. An early news sheet account of the church describes its
importance to the "secluded inhabitants of this part of the
world," enabling the settlers to live on the edge of wilderness, a
surrounding and pervading "unknown and mistrusted desert."
The importance placed by the pioneers on
the church is apparent in its early appearance in the developing
settlement, just over a decade after their arrival. This timeframe is
impressive when placed in context. In the early days of the settlement,
the colonists felt acutely a lack of goods and labour. The church was
built at a time when the cost of importing goods was almost four times as
high as the settlement’s meager revenue (generated mostly from wool and
whale oil). Settlers were also focused on securing a home site and land,
which became increasingly difficult with each arriving boat. And convict
labour, which was an invaluable workforce in the other colonies, was
unavailable. The settlement was not envisaged as just another
"pickpocket colony." Convicts, as a source of labour, would not
arrive for at least two decades. In the meantime, land had to be explored
and granted, scrub and large trees cleared, seeds planted, and homes and
buildings erected.
Life in the fledgling country was
difficult. Farming was a hit-and-miss venture; seeds suitable for English
conditions often failed to germinate. Compounding the difference in seed
were the unknown pests and the differing seasonal conditions: weather
seesawed from intense heat to cold and from dry to flooding. The sense of
adventure and enterprise that brought many of Fremantle’s first free
immigrants was tested again and again. The pioneers set their priorities
for survival, one of which was a church.
Top
Memories
of the Homeland
Memories of Mother England are depicted in
the left side of the Pioneer Window. The uppermost point of the first
medallion contains a small, white map of England with two cities: York,
and Plymouth, which was the port of departure for many early settlers. A
depiction of the Plymouth port appears directly beneath the English map.
The second medallion gives a homey feeling
of abundance and protection. Thatched-roof, English cottages sit amidst
rolling, fertile countryside. A tree and its lush leaves stretch
protectively across the upper left portion of the scene. A calm, royal
blue sky peeks between the foliage and the white, chimneyed cottages,
which stand beside a stream. Green leaves and grapes border the already
abundant scene. England is nostalgically remembered as a fertile,
cultivated land.
A poem about the English Cotswolds, by
Nancy Eaton (a descendent of one of the first settlers), speaks of this
fondness for the English countryside in a poem: "… Into the green
that is England’s green, To the stone that is England’s stone. …Where
the stone cottages snuggle the earth…."
H.M.S. Challenger,
with her billowing sails and full rigging, fills the entire third
medallion. The distant sea is topped with swells of clouds. Captained by
Charles H. Fremantle, the ship set sail from England, arriving
approximately sixteen weeks later on the western shore of "New
Holland." The English planned to build a permanent settlement here at
the mouth of the Swan River.
Once thought by the French, Dutch, and
English to offer little in the way of comfort or commercial gain, Western
Australia remained unclaimed for centuries. However, when the French
looked interested in colonial expansion, the English set sail. In 1827,
led by Major Edmund Lockyer, a tiny military unit and a handful of
convicts unfurled the Union Jack and fired a few salutary shots where
Albany suburbs rest today. Although some historians claim this landing as
the beginning of the permanent occupation of Western Australia by the
British, there were few facilities offered to potential settlers. Other
historians claim there was no intent for a permanent settlement here; that
would wait until Fremantle.
In 1829, under Captain Fremantle, the
British Empire annexed (through occupation) the western coast of New
Holland (Western Australia) for His Britannic Majesty, King George IV. The
British flag was hoisted at Arthur’s Head. This act expanded the British
Empire by over one million square miles with 4,300 miles of coastline. The
area was ten times as large as the British Isles. The first permanent
settling of Western Australia had begun. Wheat and grapes again border the
third medallion. These images take on a second meaning: export product,
foreshadowing some of the coming agricultural trade of the colony.
The bottom, left medallion illustrates the
arrival of the settlers in the new land. Wading through the waters, men,
most likely settlers’ servants, carry heavy trunks and furniture toward
shore. Smaller boats, used to move the goods and people onshore, float on
the water behind the wading men. A gentleman wearing a top hat and with an
overcoat draped casually over his arm, and a woman with equally neat
clothing stand on the shore and watch as their belongings arrive.
Unfortunately, much of the furniture never made it past its point of
arrival, rotting there at the water’s edge. Wheat, green grapes and
leaves border the top and bottom of the medallion of the arriving
immigrants.
Top
A
New Life Awaits
The right side of the window continues the
history of 19th-century Fremantle, showing glimpses of the
immigrants’ lives in the new colony. At the uppermost point of the right
window is an outline of their new home, the west shore of New Holland.
Fremantle is pinpointed on the white map.
The second medallion exudes a sense of
vastness. Flat fields fill the majority of this section and large fluffy
clouds drift overhead. Grain is stacked on end to dry and appears ready to
harvest. A single-story pioneer cottage with small supportive posts and an
encircling veranda, common at the time, sits in the distance. Another,
square building – a shed – can be seen to the left. Full, round green
grapes border the bottom of the section.
The work of clearing and planting and of
producing harvest was labour intensive and slow. Some early explorers
described the land as monotonous with meager vegetation (circa 1827). The
town was still described in 1950 by European immigrants, such as a then
19-year-old Scottish immigrant, as being cold, rainy, miserable, and if
possible, a place to leave, not aspire to. With such grim reports, why
would anyone immigrate?
Early reports on the aspiring colony were
mixed. In 1827, reports of high praise came back from explorers such as
Captain James Stirling. They painted a romantic, positive picture of
southwest Australia, which can look beautiful – almost lush – with its
picturesque grass and trees, sweet smelling boronia and brilliantly
colored kangaroo paws. These early descriptions caught the imagination of
the first settlers. The reports of early explorers were correct, but they
didn’t tell the whole story. On the southwest coast, land appearances
can be deceptive; scenery can be confused with fertility.
In contrast to these recommendations were
the harsh reality faced by many of the settlers. Soil was patchy in
quality and much of it was not suitable for agriculture. The Fremantle
environs had limited grassy pastureland and pockets of rich soil that
could be quickly worked and harvested. These land plots were located along
the frontages of small river systems. However, few settlers could have
such a plot of land. The first abundant harvest did not happen until the
end of 1831. In the interim years the settlers relied on supplies of
flour, potatoes and meat from Java, Tasmania, the Cape of Good Hope, and
India. On a number of occasions, the settlers faced severe rationing; it
was their only way to hold famine at bay.
Beside the potential for good pastureland,
which had been reported by settlers in New South Wales, settlers emigrated
for other, personal and national reasons. Some wanted to escape pauperism,
low wages, and unemployment. At the other end of the social scale were the
moneyed immigrants: gentlefolk, tradesmen and professionals. Military and
naval officers who were on half pay since the end of the Napoleonic War
were also interested. Still others were convinced that the new colony held
quick profits and stately mansions with big estates. On a patriotic level,
British vision and Empire expansion were reasons why some loyalists
emigrated.
The settlement grew fast, at first. The
pioneers landed during boisterous wintry weather and spent the first two
months offshore on Garden Island huddled in tents and huts. Despite this
slow start, within six months over 20 ships dropped anchor at the mouth of
the Swan River. And one year later approximately 1500 settlers had landed
- all of whom required home sites and land. This inundation caused
problems; land had to be explored and granted.
Settlers were not impressed with the
unpromising appearance and infertility of much of the land. About
three-quarters of the immigrants were from urban areas, which left them
unprepared for the conditions they faced in the colony. Some early
settlers, who could afford it, packed up and sailed back to England or
explored other Australian possibilities. Like them, John Hole Duffield
explored other opportunities in New South Wales before settling around
Fremantle.
Captain James Stirling, the
Lieutenant-Governor of the colony, tried to help the struggling
settlement. In 1929 he sailed to Java for supplies for the colony. Missing
that year’s harvest, the first pioneers had to rely on the remaining
food brought aboard the sailing vessels. In 1832, a few years after H.M.S.
Challenger came to Fremantle, Captain Stirling sailed back to England.
One of his purposes for sailing was to plead Fremantle’s case,
requesting more money for the struggling settlement.
Progress was coming, albeit slowly and in
spurts. In 1832, the colony planted its first vineyards at Hamilton Hill.
Settlers were erecting tolerable houses, according to Captain Fremantle,
in spite of the sandy and unpromising appearance of the settlement’s
landing. The work seemed relentless; by 1836, some of these houses were
already in decline, being buried in the drifting white sand.
The first St. John’s Church is
illustrated in medallion two. Opened in 1843, this structure dominated the
eastern end of Fremantle. The church was a stately structure in the small,
struggling town, especially when set against the surrounding flat brush
and scrub land. It had a high turret and a large, single-roomed body. Like
most of the buildings of that century, the church was built from local
limestone, which made it so white and bright as to dazzle and hurt
onlookers’ eyes.
Located directly at the end of High
Street, the main street of the new settlement, it commanded an equally
impressive position in the town. The Square on which St. John’s sat had
been planned as a public reserve. It became the prominent location of the
church when the proprietors of allotments facing the Square, which
included the Duffield family, petitioned the government. A copy of this
petition is displayed in the current church.
High Street had a likely pair of street
ends: a gaol (Round House) at one end and a church at the other end. The
symbolism of retribution and redemption was not by accident.
The church was designed by the church’s
first Rector, an Irishman named George King. The design fit its new home:
"Western Australian", meaning practical, with a touch of
Georgian and Greek-revival style.
During the late 1870s and 1880s, Fremantle
experienced significant expansion and a few accompanying growing pains,
one of which was the demolition of St. John’s Church. During this time,
the town erected many municipal buildings, such as the State’s first
Lunatic Asylum, the Court House, and the Town Hall. The town’s early
plans included an extension of High Street. As a result of these and later
plans, the Town Trust bought half of St. John’s Square from St. John’s
Church; High Street was extended, and construction of the Town Hall was
discussed. Less than 40 years after it was opened, St. John’s Church was
demolished, and the current building constructed. Two remembrances remain
from the original church: a commemorative plaque in the middle of the
Square and rich red glass located in the stained glass windows next to the
Pioneer Window.
Today’s structure is over twice as large
as its forerunner. The later church has a high vaulted ceiling of seasoned
jarrah and combines Early English and Gothic architecture. Construction of
the second St. John’s Church began in 1879, after the traditional
"laying of the foundation stone." Bishop Parry placed under this
foundation stone a time capsule of sorts: money and three newspapers from
the time.
The nave of today’s church contains an
interesting assortment of 19th-century documents, including
allotment papers, architectural plans, news sheet articles, and black and
white photographs of the original church.
Green grapes and wheat, a theme that
repeats itself throughout the Pioneer Window has a third meaning when
taken in context of this church medallion. Used as a border for St. John’s
Church, the images symbolize the Christian sacrament of the Eucharist, in
which bread and wine are consecrated and received in commemoration of the
passion and death of Jesus.
A baptism scene, the third medallion in
the Pioneer Window, is simultaneously allegorical and genealogical. The
baptism appears to be typical: persons gathered around a font for an
infant’s baptism. The persons, however, were not random figures. These
figures represent actual individuals in the Humble/Duffield lineage: four
generations of family, from John Hole Duffield to those who commissioned
the window (the Johnsons).
The garments worn by the baptism attendees
reflect the eras and social strata in which the individuals lived. For
example, one woman is wearing a bonnet and a white shawl; her hands are
slipped in a hand muff. Her simple clothes reflect the basic, difficult
lives endured by many of the new settlers. Another woman, presumably from
the next generation, has climbed the social ladder. She is dressed in a
late Victorian, red velvet, bustled gown and matching hat. This woman in
tailored gown looks as if she stepped right out of a Dickens’ novel.
Likewise the earlier, loose cut suit of one gentleman starkly contrasts
with the later, tailored suit and tie worn by another attending gentleman.
Twenty years after John Hole Duffield
arrived in Fremantle, he was surrounded by family. He lived on his farming
estate "Bicton," named after an English locality. The estate was
the nucleus of a modern-day suburb with the same name. After 20 years,
Duffield wrote to his sister Lydia of his adjustment and contentment:
"… I have seen many ups and downs …, but I am happy to say that I
think I am pretty comfortably situated…. I farm my own land, I grow my
own wine, I kill my own cattle, I catch my own fish, I ride my own horse,
I drive my own gig, I sail my own boat, I sit under my own vine and under
my own fig tree. I have all my family around me – children and
grandchildren we number twenty-one." Today Duffield’s descendents
number well over 3,000.
In recording their genealogy in the
Pioneer Window, the Johnsons used another, equally inventive method of
recording direct descendants of the Duffield and Humble families. The
monograms of family members, such as the daughters’ first names, are
cunningly hidden. For example, a monogram of the letter "B"
(Bonnie) is located in the bottom left medallion, in a lower left vine
leaf.
Illustrated in the bottom right medallion
is the Swan River of the 19th century, before Willis Point was
removed to build today’s inner harbor. There are many reasons for the
family to include the Swan River in a historical account of Fremantle.
Western Australia was known as the Swan River Colony. The early settlers
used the Swan River extensively for transportation. Fremantle’s location
made it an excellent trading and distribution center for goods destined
for Perth and beyond. Transporting goods and people by boat was more
efficient and practical, as the overland route was "rough as a goat’s
knees."
The scene includes two bridges, the
settlement’s first traffic bridge and the later railway bridge. The
former, located in the background of the medallion, was looked upon as a
feat of convict labour because of the complexity and difficulty of the
endeavor. The bridge was over 2,000 feet long, including approaches, and
reached over 40 feet above the water – a thick crisscrossing of logs and
beams. The level of difficulty allowed some convicts to work without
chains. According to a disputed legend, a convict may also have been the
first to use the completed bridge in the mid 1860s. Moondyne Joe (well
known bushranger Joseph John) reportedly used the bridge in one of his
famous gaol-breaking escapades. This railway bridge, however, is
ambitious, being ahead of its time. The medallion represents 1875, which
is four years before this bridge was started.
Top
Politics Know No
Boundaries (or Eras)
The Pioneer Window adds another dimension
to genealogy and history, namely politics. The window contains roses in
several of its medallions: St. Paul’s Cathedral, England’s outline and
countryside, the baptism, and the Swan River. White roses largely
outnumber red roses. The roses symbolize allegiance to differing royal
houses, both of which claimed the right to rule 15th-century
England. This 15th-century political baggage found its way into
the new colony, and its importance to Fremantle’s settlers is apparent
here by its prolific inclusion.
Called the War of the Roses, the 15th-century
struggle was contained mostly among the English nobility. The War of the
Roses was a 30-year battle for the English throne between the House of
York, whose emblem is a white rose, and the House of Lancaster,
represented by a red rose. The battles, murders and assassinations during
the struggle for power ended in 1485 through a marriage that united the
houses. From this union, the Tudor dynasty was founded.
The ancestry and political leaning of the
commissioning family is apparent in the medallion containing the baptistry
font as it includes a white rose. Additionally, the English map overhead
includes only two English cities, the port of departure (Plymouth) and
York.
Top
Necessity,
Impetus, and Ingenuity
The spirit of the Pioneer Window – to
celebrate the lives of Fremantle residents, from the 19th
century to today – echoes throughout the church in a variety of stained
glass windows, plaques, statues, and carvings. The number of memorabilia
is surpassed only in the plurality of personalities therein commemorated.
These commemorated individuals capture the spirit of the Australian
pioneer, whose versatility, initiative, and ingenuity were so commonplace
as to make these hallmark traits seem everyday. John Hole Duffield, for
example, was a mariner, a cooper (a maker and repairer of casks and
baskets), an entrepreneur (helped form the Fremantle Whaling Co.), and a
property owner, who farmed the land and cared for vineyards. To be
successful, Fremantle’s early settlers also had to excel at surviving in
the bush, harvesting the land, shooting game, and fishing.
A further sampling of family surnames
commemorated in the church and a cursory look at their varied interests
and skills is daunting, especially when viewed from a current, specialty
diploma perspective. Pioneer Sutherland, one of the colony’s first chief
executives was an assistant surveyor, who later became a Collector of
Revenue at Fremantle. Leake was the pioneer Government Resident of
Fremantle; Thomas a shipmaster, hotelier, and Chairman of the Town
Council; Lefroy an explorer, Comptroller of the Fremantle Prison, and
auditor and later chairman of the Fremantle Town Council; Brown a Police
Magistrate, pasturalist and agriculturalist; Scott a Fremantle harbour
master, pilot, and foundation Chairman of the Fremantle Town Trust; Pearse
a landowner, businessman, member of the Board of Education, and President
of the Fremantle Building Society; and Moore (one of the only women
commemorated) was a Mother’s Union activist. These names can also be
found outside the church through Fremantle’s street signs and/or
building names.
Top
A
Tour of Historical Gems Continues
As you walk around St. John’s Church, be
observant: look at the walls, the tables, and the chairs. Scan the floor.
You’ll find plaques and memorials ad infinitum. For example, look
at the sides of the New Zealand pine pews. The fading black numbers
located there are left over from the era when churchgoing families rented
pews for their weekly use. Small outlines of nameplates can also be seen
on the upper parts of the pews.
Most items in St. John’s Church
commemorate someone, whether that someone is an early pioneer, a revered
archbishop, a popular rector, a successful merchant, a South African War
casualty, a vestryman, a Sunday school student, or simply someone who
loved children. And most commemorative items were given by someone,
including parents, relatives, parishioners, Fremantle citizens,
schoolmates, and wartime comrades. The baptistry font, for example, was
given by Sunday School children. Locating and reading the commemorative
notations of the memorials gives a personal touch. Sometimes the
annotations are at the back as on a chair, or at the base as on the brass
Eagle lectern. The words accompanying the items may be few, but when
contemplated collectively, they speak volumes.
Take, for example, the majestic brass
Eagle lectern. This two-metre lectern, commemorates William Dalgety Moore,
a merchant whose wide scope of interests included exporting, timber,
flour, and pearling. The Eagle, fondly known as "Bill," after
W.D. Moore, has frighteningly lifelike talons, distinct breast and wing
feathers, and a sharp, curved beak. The view from atop the lectern
platform, which looks out across Bill’s outstretched wings and turned
head, is one of soaring above the nave’s pews.
Behind the eagle is a plaque in
remembrance of a 1902 casualty of the South African War. Several war
memorials can be found around the church in various forms and for
differing wars. These include a large, white, marble commemorative plaque
for the officers and men of H.M.A.S. "Perth" who lost their
lives during enemy action in the Sunda Straits on February 28, 1942. The
tablet was erected by the Ex-Navalmen’s Association of Western
Australia. Survivors of the lost warship hold a memorial service at St.
John’s annually. Additionally, the baptistry and screen are in
remembrance of more than 30 World War II casualties. The 1922 choir vestry
commemorates World War I casualties (more than 60 parishioners), and small
wooden tables and carved jarrah angels located about the church were
donated for servicemen, from drivers to pilot officers, killed in early 20th
century combats.
Historic flags hanging in the south
transept continue the political history of the state. The first flag on
the left, a dusty red, white, and blue banner with gold and crimson
fringe, are regimental colours. The Governor of Western Australia (Sir
Gerald Strickland), under a direction in 1902 by His Majesty King Edward
VII, presented the banner to the 86th Western Australian
Regiment in 1911. The regiment received the banner to commemorate the
service of its members in the South African War, 1899-1902.
The first, white flag on the right is the
Regimental flag of the Fremantle Rifle Volunteers. The Regiment, formed in
1862, was disbanded in 1903. As the last commanding officer of the unit,
Captain John Humble received the flag, which eventually passed to St. John’s
Church. Many years ago, the original satin began to rot and the embroidery
of the centre wreath desperately needed repair. The flag was sent back to
its makers, nuns at Mount Mellick in Ireland, who restored it beautifully.
Excellent craftsmanship is apparent in the
blacksmithing and carving of the church’s furnishings. The black iron
screen at the front of the church has a wonderful interplay and repetition
of straight and curved lines. Miniature swirls, points, semicircles, and
arches make the heavy iron look light and airy. This black ironwork and
its accents of matte gold petals are repeated at various locations in the
church, including the baptistry, the communion rail, and the sanctuary
candleholder.
The white stone reredos appears as a stark
backdrop against the black iron of the screen. The meticulously carved
stone, which is greying with age, contains delicately carved grapes and
leaves. Six carved spires reach toward the three stained glass windows
overhead. In contrast to these brightly coloured windows, the tri-panel
reredos mosaic employs a single scene with sedate, muted tones. Matte gold
squares form the background to figures clothed in soft, yet exotically
patterned robes of chartreuse, lavender, and powder blue. The rich
coloured folds of the surrounding curtains and the bright red of the
carpet, as well as the repeating shapes, spirals, and themes of the
windows and reredos give the sanctuary a rhapsodic atmosphere with
interesting variations.
Above the reredos are three eloquent
stained glass windows. The Biblical figures in the glass are wonderfully
detailed, showing robe edgings, rug fringe, and skin creases. This window
is dramatic when seen from the outside at night. The centre panel
represents Christ stilling the storm, which is particularly appropriate in
Fremantle, a port city.
The large brass cross on the High Altar
was a gift from Lady Fraser, given at Easter 1891. Lady Fraser was the
wife of Sir Malcolm Fraser, Surveyor-General and later Colonial-Secretary
(1883-1890).
At the opposite end of the church, above
the portal doors, there is an equally detailed rose window, whose four
winged figures (symbolic beasts of the Apocalypse) look as if they could
take flight. Less detailed, but equally as interesting is the
Madonna-and-child representation in the south transept. The facial
features of the mother and child are Aboriginal, and the setting is
Australian flora. The window titled "Faith" in this same
transept was specially chosen for the children of the parish. It is in
memory of Eva Glyn Watkins and Grace Glyn Watkins, daughters of Archdeacon
and Mrs. Watkins.
The nave of the church illustrates
continued Duffield connection with St. John’s – a span of well over a
century and a half. The stained glass window: "They presented unto
Him gifts" (the Magi worshipping the infant King) on the southern
side of the nave, is in memory of John Hole Duffield (son of original
pioneer) and his wife Sarah. The panel alongside: "They found Him in
the Temple" (Jesus at the age of 12 years in the Temple), is in
memory of Edwin Foss Duffield (grandson of the original pioneer).
Step into the north transept and come face
to face with an original Philip W. Goatcher painting: The Ascension of
Mary. Many critics feel that Goatcher, who painted in the mid to late
1800s, has never been equalled in Australia as a trompe l’ oeil painter.
Best known for his theatrical drop curtains, Goatcher received the
nickname of Velvet n’ Satin for his realistic portrayal of these
materials. Goatcher displays this skill in The Ascension in the realistic
portrayal of Mary’s and the angel’s gowns.
The organ, kept in the sanctuary, has an
interesting and extensive history. Built as a hobby, the organ was
installed in the church in 1884. Being a water blown organ meant that
following any extended use of the organ, such as during weekly service,
the water had to be released. More than once, the organ’s water ran down
Adelaide Street following Sunday morning service. Restored in the early
1900s, the updated version used an electric blower. In 1962 the organ
received another, major reconstruction, this time being updated into an
electric pipe organ. The organ now has over 1000 pipes and three
keyboards. Wood was kept from the original organ and was decoratively
carved into a cross, which now hangs in the south transept (Chapel of St.
Michael and All Angels).
While in the sanctuary, look at the 1879
floor. The small maroon, navy, and cream tiles tessellate a mosaic of
checkered Victorian patterns: diamonds, squares, and triangles. The rest
of the church floor tiles, which were similar to these, have long since
buckled and, subsequently, have been replaced. Keeping a level, dry floor
as well as crisply painted walls is difficult due to the high water table
in Fremantle, which causes moisture problems in the church when it rains
heavily.
St. John’s Church is alive with small
gold plaques, large marble memorials, exquisitely carved jarrah and stone,
and worn flags. Some of the items such as the sanctuary screen and reredos
are large, but more are small such as carved jarrah angels and the
ornately scripted Remembrance Book. Walking into transepts and peering
around larger items is necessary to discover these smaller treasures. Look
at the items, touch them, and share in the lives of Fremantle’s pioneers
and residents.
Top
… And Outside
the Church
The stone walkway outside the church
continues the historical tour. The walkway is made of Yorkshire
flagstones, which came out to the new colony as ballast on sailing ships.
Beginning in 1850, many of these ships carried convicts (a.k.a. labour) to
the colony. By 1859, well over 17,000 feet of flagstone paved the northern
side of High Street, the western sides of Henry Street, and the eastern
side of Cliff Street. The church walkway contains the remaining flagstones
in Fremantle today. The corner slab to the right of the portal door bares
the broad arrow stamp of the convict, who was a main source of labour in
laying the stones. Unfortunately, the stones were squared to fit, instead
of being left in their original, curved shape.
Above the flagstone walkway is a Gothic
doorway arch with small square stones at eye level (where the arc ends).
These stones, like the square stones outside each of the church’s doors,
were designed as carved roses. Their unfinished state echoes back to the
era of labour shortages.
Further southwest along the square is a
two-metre stone memorial water fountain. The memorial, to a "Working
Class Martyr," commemorates Thomas Charles Edwards, who died as a
result of Bloody Sunday, May 4, 1919. On this day, police, and unionist
wharf labourers and their supporters battled for control of the Fremantle
wharves. The confrontation occurred during a strike by the unionist
lumpers protesting non-union labour and the unloading of goods. Timing was
critical: the perishable goods were to be unloaded without regard to the
current quarantine, imposed to prevent the spread of a life-threatening
influenza. Iron pickets, which ran along the Town Hall, were pulled from
the ground and used as weapons in the uprising.
A celebration of the arts presents itself
on the north side of the church where Italian sculptor Pietro G. Porcelli
is seen in action – molding a head from clay. Porcelli’s statue is so
lifelike that it often commands a second look from passersby. The parted
stance and slightly bent knees as well as the forward thrust of the head
gives this statue the concentration of a living artist.
To help assimilate the hidden, historical
gems of St. John’s Church and to simply enjoy the sun of Fremantle,
benches are located around the Square under the massive fig trees. Past
the Square is a medley of sights and sounds typical of Freo. The soft
colours of the facades contrast sharply with the busy streets below, a
mishmash of discount shops, CD stands and Lotto scratch cards. The odd
café here or there, astray from the Cappuccino Strip, wafts an inviting
aroma of freshly brewed lattes. And a thriving tourist office is
chock-full of information on Fremantle attractions, including gripping
night tours of the Fremantle prison, Sunday courtyard music at the
Fremantle Art Centre, and hundreds of crowded Fremantle market stalls.
Top
|
|